Koh Dach (Silk Island)

Ani

Last night I asked Savon to take me to the riverside so I could talk to one of the many boat owner/operators who work the sidewalks at the riverfront looking for potential customers. Sure enough we came across a young-looking fellow holding a laminated poster advertising various destinations all available for a price. We agree on a $50 USD for a three-hour trip to Silk Island--one hour each way and one hour on the island. Savon was an excellent translator but his willingness to negotiate left something to be desired. I asked him if he thought $50 was fair and he said, "Oh I dunno Sir; is up to you." Yeah, I knew that much. The arrangements were made--we would return Saturday morning for the excursion on "the little boat." I has asked him "How little?" but perception is reality, as we shall see.

On Saturday morning Savon drove me to the riverfront (where the boats are docked) and sure enough we found our man, Ani waiting for us. As it turned out Ani was a little of everything: sales rep, tour guide, and skipper. I stepped out of the tuk-tuk, took one step onto a grassy plot and immediately got introduced to the Cambodian police officer who had but one responsibility this hot, sticky Saturday morning--to keep tourists off the grass. Savon quickly pulled me by the arm and said something to the officer. (I'm assuming it was a Khmer version of "He's from Maryland" said in conjunction with a piteous nod of the head.) Whatever he said, it worked because he whisked me away toward the river. Ani then said, "We take big boat." From atop the bank I could see an array of boats of all sizes. Ours was indeed a "big one" on which I would be the only passenger. (Even the "little boat" was not small, but hey, I boarded and off we went.)

On the way he took me to what Cambodians call "Vietnam Village" (pronounced "A rake sa" in Khmer), a floating village on the Mekong River. It is hard to find words to describe the abject poverty reflected in those living conditions--the overcrowding, the poor housing, the squalor.

Located on the Mekong, Koh Dach is home to a small village of silk weavers. To get there I first had to climb a dirt wall of hand-carved "steps." It was broiling hot and I was wearing flip-flops. (You get the picture.) At the top I found Heng Naysim, a family owned business featuring Khmer Traditional Silk Weaving as the sign said. That is where I met Ny Siem. When I first spotted her she was weaving a gorgeous pink and purple scarf (and I immediately thought how much my granddaughter, Anna might like it and told her so. Like many Cambodians I have met she wanted to know where I am from and how long I would be in "Cam-bo-dee"). I'm sure Ny Siem meets lots of "foreigners" as we are often referred to, but for whatever reason, she stopped her work to explain the family business to me. She said that silk thread is imported from China and Vietnam, that they at Koh Dach do not grow silk worms. She pointed out her mother (more on her in a moment) and the rest of the family. She explained that some weaving is extremely complex while other pieces are easier. For example, the two color piece she was working on could be completed in three hours, while a very ornate piece her aunt was working on would take approximately 15 hours to complete four centimeters!

Ny Siem at work

The entire operation was under cover but outdoors. To say it was hot under there does not adequately express what I felt. It took about five minutes to draw everyone's attention. Ani brought me a hand held fan (good start). Ny Siem's mother stopped her work--to fan me. Honest to god! Hey I wasn't complaining because it seemed to help. Ny Siem helped me select the pieces I would buy and even found one just like the one she was weaving! (Hey Anna, guess what you're getting!)

Meeting Ny Siem and her family was a real privilege. They are humble, kind people who work hard for the little they receive in return. It was truly a family affair. As I waited for Ny Siem's brother to finish tying knots in the fringe pieces of Anna's scarf, I met the extended family including two little guys who spent some of their time sizing me up. I showed one fellow my camera and motioned to him. Right on cue...