Choeung Ek--The Killing Fields (Not for Young Readers)

This entry is not for young readers.

Located approximately nine miles from Phnom Penh, amid peaceful fields and pleasant countryside, stands Choeung Ek--commonly referred to as "the killing field." Between 1975 and 1978, this once longan tree orchard, became a place of ineffable atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge.

An estimated 17,000 prisoners from Toul Sleng (s-21) were executed at Choeung Ek. In 1980 teams of archeologists excavated 86 of the 129 mass graves. They were found to contain the remains of men, women, and children who were most often bludgeoned to death (so as to conserve bullets).

Central to the Choeung Ek memorial is a gleaming, modern stupa containing the skulls and other bones of over 8000 victims. Walking among the killing fields is a humbling experience. Small wooden signs with graphic descriptions attempt to convey the horror of lethal techniques employed by the Khmer Rouge.

After all it was only 35 years ago that Choeung Ek earned its notorious reputation. These days it is treated more as a tourist destination than memorial. Like so many other places, beggars, vendors and tuk-tuk drivers compete for attention on both arrival and departure. Children who know enough English to beg for dollar bills line the chain link fences along the perimeter of the property shouting their requests (then blowing raspberry noises when they are ignored).

The destruction of Cambodia and the genocide committed by the Khmer Rouge are well-documented. Killing fields similar to Choeung Ek have been located all over Cambodia. The estimated death toll is over two million.

Inside the museum (where photos are prohibited) there is a sign which reads:

We are absolutely determined no to let
this genocidal regime to reocur in Kampuchea.